Friday, May 25, 2012

Hello Soweto!


Apologies to my fan(s) (miss your face C-Beats) I’ve been terribly neglectful, but no more! 
Tuesday May 15:
Today was absolute madness at the clinic because not only were there twice the number of patients (because of all the appointments that were missed yesterday) but the power was out until just after 10 which meant a great deal of the morning was dedicated to tracking down a place in one of the generator-powered sections of the hospital where we could plug in the centrifuge. This afternoon I helped one of the study coordinators track down patient files and check through recording discrepancies. Got a good taste of the administrative mess that comes with running a project like this. I am still waiting for the red tape to clear around my access to the infant data. Apparently I have walked in at the exact moment of utmost turmoil for the project. Issues about funding and an announcement of canceling the study yesterday has absolutely everyone flying around the ceiling with stress. Not a great time to be a fresh arrival but everyone is still really friendly, and I’m getting great exposure to the South African Soap Opera scene which plays almost constantly in our clinic’s waiting room. 
Friday May 18:
This week i started making baby steps towards learning the ropes at the PHRU. Thursday I went with some of the nurses into Soweto for patient recruitment. It got to see some of the other clinics - drove past the block were Nelson Mandella’s house is (it was a few streets over but I”m going to make a trip back to see the museum inside). Soweto is an interesting mix between enormous glass-and-steel malls, subdivisions of various-sized brick houses each with a wall edging the compound and informal settlements of small square tin houses. The whole place is incredibly vibrant, with fruit stalls and outdoor hair salon on every corner, and people absolutely everywhere. Apparently you can bungee-jump from the top of the old reactors (see the picture), but I have yet to convince anyone at work to do it with me. 

Monday May 21:
This weekend my project’s study coordinator (and head nurse) invited me to stay with her and her family in Krugerdorp. She has two daughters, one in highschool and one in second year university - and it was absolutely wonderful just to be able to sit around and hang out with the whole family. We watched The Help and a couple of DVDs of a South African comedian named Trevor Noah. He is apparently touring the states at the moment - but he is absolutely fantastic! His stuff is really funny - but also really educational in terms of South African culture, politics, history etc. etc. Hope he’s this funny when there isn’t someone to fill in all the gaps for me! 
Friday May 25:
This week I got to sit in on the Provincial (Gutang) Meeting for AIDS comprehensive care. It was a gathering of all the district heads from across the province to talk about their successes and failures in attempting to meet various HIV-related targets (such as number of male & female condoms handed out, number of medical male circumcisions completed, +ve test rate, overall proportion of population tested, % of HIV+ antenatal women (about 20%!)) It was really interesting to hear them talk both about the administrative stuff and about the more practical issues that were hindering meeting the targets each district had been set.
One of the major issues brought up were drug shortages due to the inability of contracted suppliers to keep up with demand - which absolutely broke my heart - one woman made a very passionate speech about the unacceptability of shortages of Nevirapine syrup (which they give to newborns to prevent them from contracting HIV from their mothers) she spoke of being trusted to protect innocent souls from a lifetime of disease at a time when they had no control over their own health, life, or destiny. It was both incredible and devastating. 
Another big issue was a chronic shortage of condoms which did not seem to be resolved when the meeting ended after the second day. 
The third major issue was low numbers of medical male circumcisions, which had been a big focus of this year (evident by the huge number of billboards, posters and radio ads encouraging men to man up and get circumcised). The numbers were way below the targets that had been set, some mentioned that there were not many sites offering the service (only 2 in the City of Johannesburg District). 
The Hector Peiterson Memorial in Soweto 
It was most interesting to contrast this 2 day meeting of the higher-ups with a second trip to the clinics in the area (I went straight from the meeting on Wednesday to Soweto) which were different than the clinics we had visited last week. At one of them they were building a brand new building exclusively for MMC (medical male circumcision). We went into the clinic and found it was literally packed to standing room only. More than 50 people were crowding the waiting room (only 2 hours until the clinic closed for the night) and only 2 nurses were on duty to help them. We spoke to the head matron who was running the antenatal clinic, the HIV wing, the chronic and the acute wards by herself. I asked who was going to perform the procedures and run the new centre. She shrugged and said they were always unterstaffed, then shrugged again and shook her head. Not once had staff shortages come up during the provincial meeting, but it came up again, and again as the single greatest concern at almost all the clinics we visited that afternoon. Interest to see the disconnect first-hand, crushing to see it at such a fundamental level. 
This weekend I am headed to the Free State to visit Mark’s family! It’s supposed to be cold but very pretty! Keep you posted!
xxo


Someone sent this to Fildah - an article about how a politician in Zimbabwe thinks the HIV problem is fuelled by women being to beautiful  

Monday, May 14, 2012

Penguins and Mountain Climbing

I've been hoarding posts on my computer because the wifi at the hostel in Cape Town was a touch temperamental. But I am now in Joburg and prepared with both internet and tales of adventure:

Wednesday:
Wednesday I met up with Kristin at a coffee shop at greenmarket square and we caught the train out to Simon's Town. It was a gorgeous ride along the coast - lots of colourful surfing shacks and pretty sea-side towns. There, we went to see the penguins at Boulder Park, they were funny to watch waddle in and out of the waves but mostly they just sunbathed with their babies (the brown ones). We stopped at Klemps Bay on the way back for some antique/art shopping, and then made our way back into town.

Thursday
Thursday I climbed Table Mountain with 3 Canadian guys I met at the hostel (2 working the oil rigs in Alberta, and 1 Torontonian making his way home after 2 years teaching english in Korea). It took about 1 hour and 45 minutes straight up, and corrected any notions I may have had about being in shape. But after 10 minutes of sitting collapsed and panting at the top, the creeping sense of accomplishment definitely began to feel worth it. Initially we were above and inside the clouds so I was really irritated that I'd busted myself to be swaddled in white, but they moved past and the view was absolutely stunning. I however ran out of batteries precisely 45 minutes into the climb so this is the best I can share with you

Friday/Saturday
Friday I met with a good friend of mine from University who is studying in Stellenbosch (about 45 minutes from Cape Town) he came and picked me up, we drove to his place. I went with him to Basketball practice (he runs a program for highschool kids in the township nearby) which was an unbelievable amount of fun! After we toured the campus and then met up with his friends for dinner and some drinks and pool at a bar near by. Saturday he had to study so I (back in Cape Town) went to the Neighbour Market at the Old Biscuit Mill which is kind of a local/organic/artisan outdoor market where there are enough free samples of delicious food that you could do a lap and consider it lunch! I went back to the company gardens and toured around a bit, then went back to the hostel for dinner and turned in for an early night because Sunday was the big flight to Joburg!

Sunday/Monday
Yesterday I arrived in Johannesburg! The flight was a little less than 2 hours and rather uneventful. The man I'm staying with (a friend of my Profs) came and picked me up at the airport, then I spent the day chatting with him, touring the house and unpacking my bag. 
Today was my first day at the hospital! It's absolutely massive but conspicuously empty of patients because of the Taxi strike that happened today. Here "Taxi" refers to a mini-bus that runs in the place of public transit but has a chaotic and rather unreliable schedule known only to the locals. According to the news the strike will end tomorrow, so (fingers crossed) people should be able to come in for their appointments. Not particularly eventful as a first day of work but intriguing and as good a day as any to start feeling out my place in all of this. 

Tuesday, May 8, 2012

32 Hours Later


After 32 hours in transit (including some truly excellent UK-themed reunions) I am finally in Cape Town! It is incredibly pretty, really interesting just to wander around in, and has more used book stores than any place I’ve ever seen! The weather today was really sunny and warm but it’s cooled down a lot since the sun’s gone in. 
After a long, hot shower at the hostel, I met up with a friend from McGill who is just about to head home after almost a year working in Cape Town. It was a riot to see her again - we picked up take out from her favourite restaurant and then took it to the park to catch-up while we ate. We then met up with a friend of hers to do some souvenir shopping at the greensquare market (so they would both be prepared with adequate gifts when they arrived home). The market is a large square of stalls overflowing with a varied collection of mementos of SA. Wooden masks and beaded jewelry seem to be the staple items but there were also paintings, soap-stone carvings, scarfs and safari-themed knick-knacks. I was too tired to join her and her friends for dinner but rumour has it they have discovered the best burgers in all of South Africa. Now off to bed - there aren’t words to describe how excited I am to finally sleep lying-down. 
More Soon xx  


Table Mountain